On the subject of watches (or actually any collectible), we’re suckers for a superb story. And this week’s Watch of the Week, the brand new Tudor Pelagos FXD, has a complete lot of historical past behind it. Primarily based on a famend watch the corporate produced for the French Navy within the Seventies and ’80s, the Pelagos FXD revives a singular, strong design that was utilized by fight divers who wanted a reliable watch to assist them navigate underwater. It carries over a few of the key hallmarks of its predecessor, together with a blue dial and enormous matching bezel, to create an attention grabbing and significantly powerful watch.
Tudor’s relationship with the French Navy (the Marine Nationale in French) stretches again to 1956, when the corporate despatched just a few Oyster Prince Submariner watches to a analysis group inside the navy for testing. The commander of the group was impressed by the timepieces, and he positioned an order for extra watches. The orders saved coming (and the watches saved performing), and by 1961, Tudor may declare it was the official dive watch provider of the French Navy.
The Pelagos FXD attracts its inspiration from a later watch in that partnership, reference 9401, which Tudor launched within the Seventies and continued to provide for the navy by the Eighties. Like the unique, the trendy FXD stands out with a vibrant blue dial and matching bezel, sporting the model’s iconic “snowflake” arms and sq. hour markers. Just like the reference 9401, it comes with the initials “M.N.” and the 12 months of problem engraved on the case again. The “FXD” denotes a singular function on the case: giant, mounted strap bars built-in into the case for additional energy. Higher but, the satin-brushed 42mm case is made out of titanium for distinctive robustness and minimal weight.
The bezel is a key function on any dive watch, however the Pelagos FXD’s is a bit totally different from most. It’s a 120-notch rotating bezel, and it deviates from the standard dive watch normal as a result of it’s designed particularly for underwater navigation. To carry out underwater navigation, fight divers use a compass and a watch to swim exactly timed sections alongside a pre-planned route with the intention to arrive at a vacation spot with out surfacing. The 120-notch bezel is important for retaining correct time whereas navigating. Tudor additionally gave it an outsized design with notched edges for wonderful grip, even whereas sporting gloves.
The watch’s strap is a nod to historical past. It’s made by the Julien Faure firm (just like the straps on many different Tudor timepieces), crafted from woven polyethylene cloth that evokes the parachute cloth straps many military-issue Tudor divers as soon as sported. With its silver center stripe, titanium buckle, and self-gripping closure, it’s a cushty and classy addition to this rugged watch.
The Pelagos FXD is powered by Tudor’s MT5602 motion and shows hours, minutes, and seconds. It’s constructed for excellent accuracy in demanding situations. It’s COSC-certified for dependable timekeeping no matter environmental elements like magnetic fields and temperature adjustments. Tudor really goes past these requirements: The corporate exams the watches to make sure they’ve solely minus two or plus 4 seconds’ variation when utterly assembled. Additionally they supply a hefty 70-hour energy reserve and, like all good dive watch, they’re waterproof all the way down to 200 meters.
With this watch, the backstory is only the start—the remainder of the story will depend on the place you are taking it.[$3,900; tudorwatch.com]
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